Martial Vivot’s Salon Pour Hommes is the place to go in New York for men’s styling. Since it launched in July 2008, the boutique “men’s only” salon has gained a client list which includes Hugh Jackman, Jake Gyllenhaal and Mark Ronson.
A French native, Martial Vivot left school at 15 to begin a five-year apprenticeship to fulfil his dream–he never looked back. His career has taken him across the globe; today he is the most sought-after men’s stylist in the world.
Salon Pour Hommes offers the total grooming experience for men: haircuts, coloring, facial trims, brow tweezing and manicures – as a boutique service. What do you think is the driving force behind the renewed interest in male grooming?
I think it’s been going on for a couple of years now, but in the ‘60s and ‘70s it was very big. Barbershops offer some services–but men mostly go to them for a quick trim. When salons started to become more unisex, the male grooming industry lost its identity: many men didn’t feel comfortable in unisex places.
In fact, we haven’t created anything new: we’ve just bought it back from the past. It’s not just about getting styled–it’s about the service aspect too. In our salon, we’ve created semi-private stations. You only see the people working with you; your stylist, your pedicurist and so on. No one is invading your privacy or seeing you with the hair products on… no man wants to be seen with that in his hair.
Looking their best is very important for a lot of men - what’s the most outrageous thing a client has done to secure your services?
Two weeks ago someone was 15 minutes late–I didn’t have enough time for their appointment. They offered to pay double. I told them, “C’mon pay triple” (laughing). Seriously though, some clients will spend a fortune to fly me out at the last minute. They cannot face the word “no.” I have one regular client I see every month: it’s a two-day job, round-trip. Sometimes I get there and he only has 15 minutes to spare.
What are the latest facial hair trends in NYC?
There are lots of looks and trends. People in New York are so good at perfecting their own style. The big ‘50’s pompadour, with a lot of height and push back, nicely tapered and groomed on the sides, is really coming back. It’s a real classic look but can be styled very avante-guard. We’re finally growing hair again – I love it, the hair’s getting longer.
I think we’re finally done with the old spiky look. Mohawks and things, they’re getting tacky…of course some people can still look great in them. With facial hair anything goes. The less it’s groomed, the better it looks…especially with a beard. The beard, you should exaggerate. The hair [on your head] should be more groomed, and should be worn pushed back.
What are the top 5 looks?
The old hair care trend is coming back. Men are much more in touch with the different looks they can sport, and how preppy they can be. It’s the feeling of, “I’m gonna groom my hair very well, it’s going be really shiny and it’s gonna smell very good.” So, product is very important and they’re much more knowledgeable than they used to be.
It used to be that guys would use one shampoo and one gel from the supermarket. Now they really want to get advice. Things like blow-drying, flat irons, curling irons. Now guys love to have many styles with one haircut. We all have a professional life– then we like to go crazy at night. We all want to control our image and have different looks for those moments.
What’s your favorite mustache or beard to create?
The movie The Artist has put an older era back in people’s minds again. When people see the looks from that time, they think about smaller mustaches again. However the younger crowd still prefers to exaggerate their facial hair.
The Artist [moustache] has got to be one of my top favorites: it’s very dressy, very cool. You can kill it quickly or grow it quickly.
I hate the goatee–but I love the look of a full beard, you have to push it out, really exaggerate it. The shadows, like the scruff and the 3-day beard, are also great for playing with the shape of your face.
So, are you a clean-shaven gent or a big beard guy?
Funnily enough I don’t shave much. I trim for a 5 o’clock shadow. It makes me look skinny, and it’s all about the skinny for me.
Comments (2)
Paul Eyed
As long as the quality of the beard will be as good as your mustache - you'll be fine! ;)
Willem Schungel
If it makes him look skinny, I better start growing an even longer beard than I currently have... Will down to my toes do the job you think?